I was shocked and saddened to hear of the death of Roger Payne earlier this week. He was caught in an avalanche on the slopes of Mont Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif.
I first met Roger Payne in 1987 in La Dahu hotel in the village of Argentiere, a small alpine village between Chamonix and the Swiss border. I was with a group of climbers and it was the eve of our departure of what was to be a memorable high altitude crossing of the Alps. Roger dined and took refreshment with us. He was there to assist our guide for the trip, Iain Peters. They were both Alpine guides and obviously very good friends. My memory of Roger that night, apart from a strikingly handsome young man, was of his humour and obvious love of life. Roger and Iain turned our meal into a competition. We were eating 'Raclette', a local dish of boiled potatoes, cold meat, gherkins all of which were served in separate dishes. The plate was served up with Raclette cheese melted on it. When the cheese was eaten the waitress removed the plate and returned it with another helping of the melted cheese. She would repeat that every time. The rules were easy; see how many times they could get the waitress to take away their plates and return with melted cheese on it. I gave up counting when they had reached fourteen fillings. Next day we set out on our adventure with Iain whilst Roger drove our spare clothing to Zermatt where we would meet him some ten days or so later. We duly met up and enjoyed a good night in the 'highspots' of Zermatt. A night that included getting thrown out of one establishment after getting into a 'heated' debate with a group of German climbers. Roger and I, in the company of another, who I will not identify, became separated from our party then, despite valiant efforts, failed to hijack an electric car to transport ourselves to a disco. We got there despite our lack of mechanical aptitude. We were only borrowing it.
No doubt and rightly, many will recall great mountain achievements and so they should. In recalling these silly wee moments mentioned above it is my intention to evidence that Roger was not only a truly great mountaineer and guide but also a seriously good person who was so much fun to be around.
I next met Roger in the late August of 1988, again in Argentiere and again in the Dahu. We dined again but did not eat all the cheese. On that trip Roger was to guide three of us up Mont Blanc. We spent a week together when Roger tested us out on steep ground and at height. Two of his 'test' areas being the Petit Aguille Verte and the Merdis Glas, the latter to allow him to watch our ice axe and crampon work on seriously steep bits of ice. Roger was very professional and thorough, although his 'gamp' slung across his rucksack made him look like a city gent heading for the underground. Roger seemed happy with our progress and so next stop was Mont Blanc. Roger took us up by the central route, roughly following the first ascent route of Balmat and Paccard . I hope I can be forgiven at this difficult time from recalling a prophetic phrase Roger used once we were on the summit. He said, 'hurry up and get your photographs then lets get down before the bastard kills us.' I had heard the same phrase uttered by Iain Peter on another Alpine peak some months before. Then we got down and over the next couple of days indulged in some rock climbing and bouldering in the Chamonix area.
My only other involvement with Roger was a few years later when seeking his advice on climbing wall construction. Roger was in the British Mountaineering Council then, if I remember correctly in the position of Technical Officer.
There has been a lot said and written about Roger since his tragic death, by 'real' climbers and friends of Roger. I would love to have been his friend, however I was only a client, never a 'real' climber. I feel it important however to put a clients thoughts on paper. I might only have been a client but it seemed not to matter to Roger one little bit, he had such an enthusiasm for life and an understanding of people that his whole being simply radiated friendship and whilst hardly knowing him, he made me feel special, he made me feel I could be a mountaineer, he made me feel that we were friends and despite our seriously short history together I have always regarded him as a friend.
I cried when I heard of his death. Roger Payne was indestructible, his love of life brimmed over, he was the real deal. He gave so much in a world where most cannot give for taking.
I will never forget you Roger, you will never understand what you did for me.
My thoughts go out to your wife and loved ones, I am saddened by their loss.
I first met Roger Payne in 1987 in La Dahu hotel in the village of Argentiere, a small alpine village between Chamonix and the Swiss border. I was with a group of climbers and it was the eve of our departure of what was to be a memorable high altitude crossing of the Alps. Roger dined and took refreshment with us. He was there to assist our guide for the trip, Iain Peters. They were both Alpine guides and obviously very good friends. My memory of Roger that night, apart from a strikingly handsome young man, was of his humour and obvious love of life. Roger and Iain turned our meal into a competition. We were eating 'Raclette', a local dish of boiled potatoes, cold meat, gherkins all of which were served in separate dishes. The plate was served up with Raclette cheese melted on it. When the cheese was eaten the waitress removed the plate and returned it with another helping of the melted cheese. She would repeat that every time. The rules were easy; see how many times they could get the waitress to take away their plates and return with melted cheese on it. I gave up counting when they had reached fourteen fillings. Next day we set out on our adventure with Iain whilst Roger drove our spare clothing to Zermatt where we would meet him some ten days or so later. We duly met up and enjoyed a good night in the 'highspots' of Zermatt. A night that included getting thrown out of one establishment after getting into a 'heated' debate with a group of German climbers. Roger and I, in the company of another, who I will not identify, became separated from our party then, despite valiant efforts, failed to hijack an electric car to transport ourselves to a disco. We got there despite our lack of mechanical aptitude. We were only borrowing it.
No doubt and rightly, many will recall great mountain achievements and so they should. In recalling these silly wee moments mentioned above it is my intention to evidence that Roger was not only a truly great mountaineer and guide but also a seriously good person who was so much fun to be around.
 |
| Roger on right at vallot refuge (I am seated) |
I next met Roger in the late August of 1988, again in Argentiere and again in the Dahu. We dined again but did not eat all the cheese. On that trip Roger was to guide three of us up Mont Blanc. We spent a week together when Roger tested us out on steep ground and at height. Two of his 'test' areas being the Petit Aguille Verte and the Merdis Glas, the latter to allow him to watch our ice axe and crampon work on seriously steep bits of ice. Roger was very professional and thorough, although his 'gamp' slung across his rucksack made him look like a city gent heading for the underground. Roger seemed happy with our progress and so next stop was Mont Blanc. Roger took us up by the central route, roughly following the first ascent route of Balmat and Paccard . I hope I can be forgiven at this difficult time from recalling a prophetic phrase Roger used once we were on the summit. He said, 'hurry up and get your photographs then lets get down before the bastard kills us.' I had heard the same phrase uttered by Iain Peter on another Alpine peak some months before. Then we got down and over the next couple of days indulged in some rock climbing and bouldering in the Chamonix area.
My only other involvement with Roger was a few years later when seeking his advice on climbing wall construction. Roger was in the British Mountaineering Council then, if I remember correctly in the position of Technical Officer.
There has been a lot said and written about Roger since his tragic death, by 'real' climbers and friends of Roger. I would love to have been his friend, however I was only a client, never a 'real' climber. I feel it important however to put a clients thoughts on paper. I might only have been a client but it seemed not to matter to Roger one little bit, he had such an enthusiasm for life and an understanding of people that his whole being simply radiated friendship and whilst hardly knowing him, he made me feel special, he made me feel I could be a mountaineer, he made me feel that we were friends and despite our seriously short history together I have always regarded him as a friend.
I cried when I heard of his death. Roger Payne was indestructible, his love of life brimmed over, he was the real deal. He gave so much in a world where most cannot give for taking.
I will never forget you Roger, you will never understand what you did for me.
My thoughts go out to your wife and loved ones, I am saddened by their loss.
No comments:
Post a Comment